To be able to do this, the complete assembly instructions with all the materials and tools necessary for the construction are available by clicking on the link. You can also watch the step-by-step video instructions from our PARKSIDE workshop. You can do it!
Both the wall and radiator can be designed in the same colour. If you do the same with your radiator table, it will help to create a cohesive look.
Tip: When buying paints, make sure that all paints and varnishes are the same shade.
You can adjust the measurements however you like, as this construction plan works like a modular system.
We've chosen to use a 145 x 30 cm board with 87 cm long legs to go with our radiator.
Draw the measurements of your tabletop and the frames on the wooden board. Place the parallel guide of the circular table saw on the cutting dimensions and slide the board over the saw. You can also do this with your hand-held circular saw and its parallel guide.
The three boards for the 9 cm wide table frame - that’s the frame underneath the table surface that holds the table legs - and the 5 cm wide wall mounting bracket are next up: Trace the cutting line and place the parallel guide of your circular table saw carefully.
Tip: Make sure to always saw on the side of your pencil line that will not be used.
The two table legs are made from square-edged timbers which you cut to the desired length using the multifunctional sliding compound mitre saw.
The legs should become narrower near the floor so that the table does not turn out plump and heavy. To do this, make a sawing aid out of a board and two battens. The batten will be screwed to the board in such a way that it runs diagonal to the edge. This is the exact angle at which you want to saw into the square-edged timber for the table leg (see mounting diagram). Now mount two more kick strips at right angles on the ends of the batten and fix the square-edged timber in place with a hexagonal wood screw.
Tip: Don’t forget to pre-drill!
Adjust the parallel guide on the circular table saw so that the saw blade only cuts into the wood after 12 cm. Now simply slide the board along the parallel guide with the square-edged timber fixed in place. Repeat on all eight sides of the table legs.
Tip: For an even more appealing look, you can use the circular table saw to mill another groove into the table legs all the way around, 1 cm below the frame. Wind the saw blade of the circular table saw down to 3 mm height to do this. Then guide the table legs over the saw blade with the help of the two end stops.
Now place the bores for the wood dowels and screws. You’ll use the bench drill for this, because the bores have to be perfectly vertical. Carefully trace the bore holes before drilling: The holes on the legs should be exactly 14 mm from the edge so that the frame rebounds 5 mm - it will look great when you're done.
Tip: If you have one, use a marking gauge. We built our own: Simply saw into the side of a small block of wide, put a bore for a carriage bolt with wing nut on the open end, clamp a steel rule into it and adjust to the desired measurement
Copy the bore position on the legs onto the front of the frame boards that go with them. Now drill the 8 mm dowel holes into the front, which will then be connected to one of the table legs. Drill holes into the wall mounting bracket and the short frame boards as well so that you can connect them with wooden dowels during assembly.
Afterwards, drill four holes each through the long frame board and wall mounting bracket from above, so that you can screw on the tabletop later. The short frame boards only get two bores each.
Drill two more 6 mm holes through the narrow wall mounting bracket, where the table will later be screwed to the wall.
Tip: To make sure the screw heads disappear flush into the wood, countersink all of the bore holes in the head diameter of the screws.
This is when you should put on dust mask because it’s time for sanding: For a perfect surface, pre-grind all faces and edges once with 120 grit and then fine-grind with 180 grit. Your random orbital sander is best for this, and you can use the delta grinding plate on the 4-in-1 cordless multi-tool’s multifunctional attachment for the small parts. To keep your workspace as free of grinding dust as possible, hook up a wet/dry vacuum cleaner
Now you’ve done all the preliminary work and the assembly kit is complete. This is the right time to apply paint or varnish. Use your airless paint sprayer for a perfect surface. Make sure to wear a suitable respirator to protect against vapours and particles!
Tip: Use masking tape beforehand to mask all surfaces that will be glued later on the radiator table
First cover and thoroughly mask everything around your painting area to protect it from spray mist
Then assemble a simple painting rack to position your tools so that you can easily reach all sides with them.
With a paint sprayer, you always apply paint in several thin coats. You should always hold the spray nozzle at a right angle and keep it moving at a distance of about 20 to 25 cm from the tool, otherwise paint can run and look messy.
The first coating is the primer, which ensures an even surface for the paint. This is especially important on fibreboards, which are highly absorbent.
As soon as the primer can be painted over, spray on a thin, even coat of your desired paint. After it dries, go over a second time with another thin coating wherever there isn't full coverage.
Once everything is painted, peel the tape off the painted surfaces. Then join the legs and frame together: Apply a drop of wood glue to one end of the wooden dowel and stick it into the bores on one side. Then apply a drop of glue to the open end of the wooden dowel. Add another line of glue to the glued surfaces.
Put everything together and fix everything in place with clamps while the glue sets. Immediately wipe away any glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth.
Now set the tabletop on the base frame so that it is flush against the back. Fix the top in place with two screw clamps and screw them through the frame from below with the 110 mm wood screws.
Position the table against the wall, align it with the spirit level and use a pencil to mark the position of the bores on the wall through the drilled holes.
For good measure, use the multifunctional detector to check the wall for electricity cables and water pipes before drilling.
Now drill the holes for the wall dowels with your cordless hammer drill (stone wall) or a cordless screwdriver (plasterboard wall). Then vacuum out the drill holes using the wet/dry vacuum cleaner and plug in the dowels so that they are flush.
Place your new table against the wall so that dowels and bores in the wall mounting bracket lie on top of each other. Insert screws and tighten them with the screwdriver attachment on the 4-in-1 cordless multi-tool.
Finished. You’ve done it!
Wow, your new radiator table looks really good! Your radiator is hidden and the extra surface space you've created is quite practical too. Let the fantastic result soak in for a moment - you can’t buy something like that.