Begin by carefully drawing the individual pieces on the fibreboard with the dimensions found in the assembly diagrams. As you do so, remember that the saw blade on your handheld circular saw is 2 to 3 mm thick. Keep the width of your saw blade in mind as you draw so that all of the side panels are exactly the same size as their counterparts.

Next, use a compass to draw a corner arc with a radius of 40 mm on the corners of the side panels. The corners will be rounded down here later. The drill holes for the pull rope and the two “eyes” are also drawn at this point.

Cut along the straight lines using the handheld circular saw and the rip fence.
Tip: Where the rip fence is too short, just fix a straight edge or a level onto the board with two screw clamps and use it as a guide rail.

Only glue is used to hold the toy cart together. To help stabilise it, mill grooves into the two side panels with the router. To do this, set the milling head (12 mm groove cutter) so that it sinks 5 mm into the wooden board. Then set the rip fence on the milling machine so that the distance to the bottom edge of the board is 30 mm. This milled groove for the bottom panel will start and end exactly 18 mm from the front and rear edge of the board.

Now mill from the groove’s end point for the bottom – parallel to what will later be the front and rear edge of the side panels – at 18 mm from the edge, to exactly 30 mm below what will later be the top edge, to create grooves for gluing the boards to the front and back panels. Sink the milling head on the left end of the groove when you start.

Tip: Before milling, draw the exact groove on the board, especially the start and end points, which will be crucial to the final result. This allows you to always see whether you are milling “in line.” Clamp the board tightly to keep it from moving while you mill.

Now mark the positions of the axles on the bottom edge, 20 mm from the bottom and 95 mm from each side, and drill through the markings with a 10 mm wood drill bit.

Once this is done, take the jigsaw, clamp in a narrow bayonet blade and round off the corners of the board along the arc that you drew earlier. Then you can use the sandpaper to sand the saw cuts smooth and chamfer all of the exterior panel edges slightly, or round them off with the router.

Notch the top and bottom of the boards for the front and back so that they sit flush in the glue grooves of the side panels. To do this, use the jigsaw to saw out a piece measuring 15 mm high by 5 mm wide on each of the four corners (see assembly diagram).

Now give the front panel its two “eyes”, which should be drilled 115 mm from the top and 105 mm from each side. After marking the holes, clamp a 40 mm Forstner bit into the bench drill and carefully drill through the board.

Now there are just two more 15 mm holes to drill with the small Forstner bit, where the pull rope will be attached later. They should be positioned 105 mm from the side edge and 185 mm from the bottom edge

The bottom panel is actually done once you’ve cut it to size. All you have left to do is treat the edges, which you can chamfer slightly with sandpaper and a cork sanding block.

To mill a name into the side of the toy cart, first rough out a stencil for each letter you will need. You can use a thicker plywood to do this, for example. All that matters is that each letter is the same height. The width of the stencil cut-out corresponds to the diameter of the copy ring on your router – the milling head will run through the centre of the stencil.

Once the stencils are done, use a pencil to mark the bottom edge of the letters on the stencils as well as the centre of the letters and the distance between each letter on the side panels. Then position the stencils in a row on these markings, fix them in place with screw clamps and set your router with the copy ring into the stencil. Now sink the milling machine into the wood and start on the stencils, letter by letter.

Tip: If you want to cut the letters all the way through instead of just milling into the wood’s surface, you will need to leave a connector in closed letters like “A”, “O” and “B” so that the inside of the letter doesn't fall out.

All pieces are now finished and can be glued together. Before you start, attach a rope to the front panel with the “eyes” by sticking it through the two 15 mm drilled holes and make a sturdy knot on the inside at each end. 

Then take up the front and back panels again and round the top and bottom edges of the panels off a bit with sandpaper. The sides will remain sharp-edged, as they need to fit tightly into the glue groove.

Now apply wood glue to the glue groove on one side panel and insert the front panel with the face into one of the short grooves. Then do the same with the bottom panel and apply a thin bead of glue to the bottom edge of the front panel. Finally, assemble the back panel in exactly the same way. Use a rubber mallet and some extra wood to hammer the panels into the glue groove so that they fit flush together. 

Apply a bead of glue to the groove of the remaining side panel and stick the panel firmly into the panels that have already been assembled. Use extra wood and a rubber mallet again so that the edges of the panel sit all the way in the glue groove. The bottom panel will form right angles on its own. If your work is a bit messy, you should use screw clamps and extra boards to hold the panels in place until the glue has set.

I chose to use wheels 140 mm high and 20 mm thick. The axle length will be based on the wheel thickness. Simply adapt the plan to your materials here. The cable channel on the underside is always 37.5 cm long. Use double-sided tape to attach this.

Tip: If you would rather build wheels yourself, you can do so with the help of the router: Use the compass to draw a circle. Set your desired size and use the groove cutter to cut the wheel out of the remnants of your medium-density fibreboard in 5 mm increments. Now chamfer the edges of the wheels with sandpaper and make a hole in the middle with the wood drill bit (8 mm).

Now run the threaded rods through the box and slip a washer onto each end from the outside, then a wheel, then another washer and finally use a spanner to twist on a cap nut until it is “hand-tight”. You can also apply a bit of liquid threadlocker to the thread first.